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Demon Fishing Article Series " Down Rigging Baits & Lures! "
Using down rigger units and weights- bombs is not a new technique in the world of fishing. Even so, more and more anglers are starting to think about some of the virtues of this practice, especially in light of the increasing cost of tackle and the ever spiraling costs of fuel (gas).
Some anglers see the use of down rigger weights as maybe making it too easy to catch fish and yet I would argue that all this technique is doing is providing an alternative to paying out for deep diving lures that need a bib the size of dinner plate to achieve the same thing.
The same can also be said for those global anglers who like to slow drift their lures or baits.
This down rigging method simply means you do not have to use heavy trolling tackle, or forward weight it, to achieve the preferred angling technique needed.
Or it could simply be one of those days where the fish refuse to rise no matter what you try. On occasions like this, it makes perfect sense to utilise a down rigger set up rather than covering many miles of ocean dragging lures around that are not even going to a get decent rise from fish that are hunkered down on thermocline zone and won't shift for love nor money.
Whatever your position is, here are some useful tips to consider when down rigging your jigs, lures or baits in either fresh or saltwater.
(a) You do not need an expensive set up (down rigger unit) on the back of you boat providing there is not a plan to go trolling at Mack 7 and with your hair on fire. Most stern mounted down rigger units will do the job more than adequately in either fresh or inshore, saltwater, locations.
Several of these units come with screw clamps so this means you can put them on them on the stern and take them off your boat as needed.
(b) Most of the smaller DR units usually come with a tow cable already spooled on as well. If not, then consider using HD gel spun braid line instead. This means that you have less line resistance in the water and your weight or bomb will sit deeper under slow to medium speeds.
It also pays to pre-mark your tow line in increments of a yard (or metre) lengths before using the unit so that you have some idea of how much tow line you have dropped down.
(c) On the end of that down rigger line needs to go a heavy clip and swivel. Something like a coach lock swivel is ideal. This swivel gets clipped to the top of your bomb (note diagram 2 - point A below). In the same kit, you may also received a release clip which is then attached to the rear loop of your bomb (diagram 2 - point B below).
If one did not come with your DR unit, then you can either buy one or consider the next option.
(d) While release clips come in a variety of sizes, types and lengths, another alternative is to use rubber (elastic) bands instead as your release clip unit . This is a common technique used on game boats. Why? because they have less jerk in them and they allow hooks to position themselves more slowly, and correctly, in the fishes mouth prior to hook up.
It also means that if you fish are hitting your lures half heartedly, then with the spring in your band it brings some additional life into your lure as it retracts back towards your down rigger bomb after the hit.
(e) What kind of bomb or planer do I choose? One that has some profile for towing stability and not over heavy for the job. Your bomb should not need to exceed 4 lb. for inshore work and even less for freshwater lakes. Avoid round bombs because they cause too much water resistance, create line sway and will sit even further away from the back of your boat (which is not ideal) even at low speeds.
Explore your options, including our slim line DRW range and keep efficiency in mind. No point in using a HD gelspun tow line and then sticking a great big ball on the end of it. That's counter productive in my view.
Either way, you will need a minimum of 12" between the back of your bomb - or planer - and the point at which your rod line attaches to your clip or band. 18" of distance is better for freshwater or inshore saltwater trolling.
Finding rubber bands that long is a major challenge although most good stationary shops should be able to help you out. If not then use a standard release clip.
While fairly crude, these two diagrams show the basic set up (if anyone is handy with illustrations feel free to let me know).
(f) The next issue to consider is how far back do you set your lure or bait? Generally, 6 to 8 feet (or 2.5 metres) will be enough although longer is a matter of personal choice. This also applies to species that spook easily.
Once you have decided on that preferred distance, then either place your line into the release clip, of which the other end should already be attached to the back of your bomb, or loop your rubber band over the top off your line and with a slip knot pull the band up tight. Then attach the other end of that band point (B) above.
At this stage you are set to lower both your bomb and rigged line into the water. Both need to happen slowly and at the same time keeping tension on both your reel and the down rigger spool. This is best done when the boat is stationary or just idling along. If two anglers are in the boat then one should control the rod and reel line release and the other angler control the down rigger unit spool.
(g) How deep do we drop the bomb? Good question! That will depend on what has been happening on your sounder and where you think the main body of fish are sitting. If they are all over the place then choose somewhere in the middle distance given that most species will want to chase upwards towards your lures or baits. Don't forget the markings on your tow line and count them out as your drop the bomb.
Then allow another yard or metre more to compensate for the slight back sway you will get once under motor again. Then it is a matter of minor adjustments (depth wise) to get yourself right into that preferred strike zone.
Plenty of practice means that both will happen easily and your tackle will be then be set correctly.
Q's & A's.
(1) Q: Which lures or baits work best using this method? A: That is a matter of personal choice and depends of the species your targeting. Even so, center line tow lures or baits tend to work better simply because of where your line is attached to, or through, them. Skirted lures are one example. That does not mean that jigs, bibbed lures or other types will not work.
They will and so will dead baits providing they are balanced properly before attaching them. Check both by pre-swimming them near the surface first. If they won't track straight then either adjust them before dropping them down or change to another lure type.
(2) Q: What's' the maximum bait or lure size I can use? A: For fresh water or inshore saltwater trolling, anywhere from small to medium sizes (6") will work best. You will also need to experiment because this varies according to your boat speed and the weight of your bomb.
In our range of slim line bombs, we suggest the 1.5 & 2 lb. mini DRW's for fresh water and inshore work.
The 2.5 lb'ers are best for offshore work or running inshore tackle very deep and at speeds of 4 knots +. If you need your tackle deeper then the Demon - fixed tow eye or self leveling - Down Planers are the answer both inshore and offshore.
Click above for full details & specifications.
Either way, using down rigger weights can save you time, money and fuel if used correctly. Their other advantage is that they can encourage fish to rise especially if you have another lure working out the back which sits 3-4 feet below the surface and/or near the top.
Similarly, if your down rigged lure or bait goes off (pulls off the clip or snaps the band) then pull your boat out of gear while your angler works their fish.. Shortly after this is the perfect time to consider casting and/or jigging off another rod if there is more than one angler in the boat.
Just wait until the deeper fish have settled and then start casting and fast retrieving, or jigging, in the general direction of where the strike took place.
At the end of the day, using down rigger units, bombs or planers can mean a very effective way to present your jigs, lures or baits out on the water regardless of what you choose to attach onto the end of them.
So keep only the fish you can eat in the next week and let the rest go.
Burnin Thumbs!
Steve Badman
The Master Jig Builder
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